DIY - CARPET
DIY - HARDWOOD
Looking to install yourself? We're here to help!
Below is a general overview of how to install carpet but as an authorized dealer for the thousands of products we carry, we have access to more in depth instructions, specific to the product you are purchasing. Just ask a friendly associate and we will be happy to send it to you.
Tip #1: Give the old carpet a good vacuuming so you won't be breathing in dust, and then use a utility knife to cut the carpet into strips about 18 to 24 inches wide. Start at one end and pull the carpet off the tackless strips and roll it up in sections.
Tip #2: Remove the existing tack strips and make sure the floor is clean and dry. This is a good time to check your subfloor and securely fasten any floorboards that may be loose so they won't squeak under the new carpet (use 1 1/2-inch screws into the underlying floor joists).
Tip #3: Install tack strip around the entire perimeter of the room, making sure to maintain a 3/8" gulley between the tack strip and the baseboard. A good way to determine that is to place your fingers between the wall and the piece of tack strip. Align the tack strip with the teeth pointing toward the wall. These are stocked by and can be purchased at Cochrane Floors & More. Note: if installing on an in-floor heating system, the tack strip must be glued down.
DO IT YOURSELF - Carpet
Tip #4: Carpet comes in widths of 12' and 15'. If the room is wider than 15', the carpet will have to be seamed. Some carpet manufacturers require that a professional carpet installer do the job if a seam is required in order to uphold the manufacturer's warranty. These regulations come under the CRI -- Carpet and Rug Institute, check with your Manufacturer on their regulations.
Tip #5: Put the underpad down in strips that overlap the tackless strips. Butt the strips against each other--don't overlap them--then staple the underlay down along the inside edge of the tackless strip. Trim the excess underlay along the inside of the tackless strip and use duct tape to seal the seams. Make sure the tackstrip follows the contours of door jambs and and corners. Take care NOT to install tackless strips across thresholds or doorways; the tacks on the strips are sharp and could poke through the carpet and hurt your feet.
Tip #6: Roll out the carpet into the room. Keep it as straight as possible. Cut away excess carpet, but leave about 3" extra next to the walls. Lay out any additional carpet needed to fill the room.
Tip #7: Where the carpet edges join, you'll need to create a seam. The seamed edges of both carpet segments must be straight. Check the edges: don't assume that a factory edge is straight. Place a piece of seaming tape under the seam, adhesive side up. Heat the seaming iron to the temperature recommended by the tape manufacturer, and rest it directly on the tape for 15 to 30 seconds. Then slowly slide the iron along the tape, and press the seam into the melted glue behind the iron. After the pieces are joined, place heavy objects on the seam to hold it in place as the glue dries. Seams should run parallel to the room's main light source. And make sure the pile of both pieces leans in the same direction.
Tip #8: First dry-fit the carpet, butting one end against a wall. Use a carpet knife to trim the carpet to fit around obstacles. Attach the carpet to the tackless strips at one end of the room, using the knee kicker. Place the face of the knee kicker against the carpet about 3" away from the wall, and forcefully strike the padded end to stretch the carpet over the tackless strips.
Tip #9: Attach the carpet to the tackless strips at one end of the room, using the knee kicker. Place the face of the knee kicker against the carpet about 3" away from the wall, and forcefully strike the padded end to stretch the carpet over the tackless strips.
Tip #10: Trim excess carpet with a wall trimmer, which rests against the wall and provides a straight cut at the correct spot. Use a stair tool to press the cut edges underneath the baseboard trim. Use the power stretcher to attach to the strips on the other side of the room. For corners and alcoves where the power stretcher can't reach, use the knee kicker and stair tool.
NOTE: The tips listed here are for general guidance only. You should always check with the Manfacturer regarding any specific installation requirements, techniques or materials required for your exact product.